A thought-provoking Observer article on the weekend by Steven Poole. It’s Christmas time, the season for Celebrity Chefs to peddle their wares, and trumpet their particular take on Christmas food and trimmings. On the cover of a recent Stylist magazine Nigella Lawson is once again presented in her well-honed ‘chef-as-temptress’ guise, prompting Poole to comment on the sexualisation of food in our culture and society. In respect to the commodification of food, of cooking, of celebrity chefdom, I share some of his views. But in crucial areas, I beg to differ. He suggests Modern Britain is food crazed, and suggests that we would be better served devoting our energies on something else, more worthwhile. In fact, I believe we are only just beginning to explore our relationship with food, and consider a deeper form of nourishment which may be available. Unfortunately, reflecting on the simple pleasures of the rhythm and seasonality of food goes against the media’s lust for the latest thing. Our connection with life force, which is available to us all, every day, in our gardens, homes and kitchens, is an expression of love (and yes, of sex) which does not come dressed up in suspenders or covered in salted caramel. It may not sell many papers or magazines. But my word, it gets the juices flowing.
